Dubrovnik is only a city of 25,000 and we are acting like its freaking new York city. We keep leaving for the country for solitude. We certainly found it today. After our morning ritual of coffee and Internet we took the rental car south. The plan was to go to a beach with less people and sand. We did arrive at the beach and found hotels and tour buses and no sand. We asked a local guy who looked inviting where do you go to the beach? He explained, not here but I will show you on a piece of paper. So we get the directions and keep driving south close to the border of Montenegro. The town is called Popovici. It’s a handful of properties made of stone and gardens and old people. No signage or stores of any sort. We drive in carefully and pull over to ask a guy who came out of his house. He only speaks Croatian and French so that was tough but he was able to point to where the beach was down this narrow wooded road behind his house. Before we could leave he had us come up to the porch for coffee. Out comes his family that is visiting and his two sons. At the table was Croatian, Argentina, Italy, and the Americans! It was quite funny when we had to speak Spanish to the argentines to communicate to the Croatians. They loved it. We showed the owner our bottle of Istrian wine we brought and he laughed and took us next door to his cellar/ tasting room to show us his award winning bottles! He is so proud. In there was also many pictures of his family as kids, the same family that was having coffee with us. They all showed us their baby pics on the wall, it was amazing. Then he shows us his family tree that starts in 1553. That is 3,000 years ago and he has it all hand written on this large poster board.
Then it gets better when he makes us follow him outside to show me his “family” of 80 turtles in this walled area in the yard. What!? You have turtles? He just fed them lettuce so they were all eating together in a big pile just chowing down. You could just hear their shells clanking and the lettuce being chewed.
So after chatting, or trying to chat, about stuff rosie and I leave to find some lunch. They pointed to a town but we couldn’t find it so we kept driving and ran into a cove that had this random little restaurant that just opened. We enjoyed some beer and sausage before heading to this beach we are supposed to be at.
We drive back to the town and by the house we had coffee at and headed down the small road that was paved oddly enough but actually most roads are paved here. We come to a stop and see something we could have never imaged ever. A freaking cement path along the cliff overlooking the Adriatic sea! This path goes about 8 minutes down the cliff and thru a little tunnel, gate and some steps to the beach. Really? Who does that. I don’t understand. Someone did it and paved it and it’s just crazy. Along the path are a few paddle boats that may be used in the summer and a lift to lower them down. It’s all rusty and surreal looking. So the beach is maybe 50 yards or so and absolutely gorgeous. Behind us is a cliff wall and in front is the Adriatic as far as we can see. There were a few people, characters, in and out but all local people. One woman came down and disappeared into the wall. Never saw her again. Then another guy came down in a speedo and gave me his tanning oil to use. I only used it cause he was so proud of it. He called it “super”. He said some other stuff too but I’m not sure what. He was harmless.
The sun goes over the cliff and we head back up, straight up this pathway. As we’re driving back there is a soccer field off the side of the road and a match happening. All the locals are sitting on rocks around the field that is quite nice and were watching. We ran into the owner we had coffee with and he invited us back tomorrow, I think, we have quite a language barrier but we may try to visit again.
Driving in these towns is always a two way road the width of your car. You just drive and when you are head on with another then one of you backs up to find a wider space or a driveway. When you are coming around a sharp curve you honk to announce your existence. It’s aggressive and something to get used to. Especially the buses on the highway, when they turn a sharp narrow turn and take of both lanes they have to honk and you just hope your not on the other side or you may get crushed.
Today was my favorite kind of day. An adventure. As for the blog title, the sea tried to steal our bottle of wine that we were chilling on a rock in the sea.
To top it all off, we had the most amazing dinner tonight with very special friends from U.S.!!! Loved it all !
Path to the secluded beach
Our stuff. No towels or beach chairs. It’s like we were washed up with our carry on luggage. Only rosie would lay on her leather jacket and cashmere blanket.
First dip in the Adriatic. Sooooo cold.